The significance of these words cannot be overstated as we continue to fight a global pandemic . Afya means good health or cheers in the Bantu tribal tongue of Swahili, a language influenced heavily by Arabic as the explorers from the Arabian peninsula explored the eastern coast of Africa. We purposefully chose this as our project theme to showcase eternal hope and the generous spirit of giving, while at the same time increasing cultural awareness of the diverse nations of the African continent. As we embark on this adventure, we are excited to think of the beautiful people we will meet on this unique & meaningful journey, similar to those we met in our prior campaign, Fall for Pakistan. Our path this time will take us to Uganda, a country nestled in the heart of East Africa. We will visit Kampala, the country’s capital, and capture city life including the iconic slums in hopes of learning about the lives of those who dwell therein, and will seek the eccentric aspects of tribal culture such as witch doctors and their mysterious and sometimes dangerous practices! We plan to visit mosques, schools, and villages, giving a compassionate and human touch to those whose tales we are fortunate enough to share and hope to bring smiles to the faces of those we meet. We thank those who contributed thru Washington DC based IMAN and supported the charitable aspect of this venture, and trust that what we share will bring you not only greater knowledge, but joy! Prepare yourselves to not only see, but also feel the emotions of the indigenous peoples thru thought provoking photography combined with the power of words thru creative storytelling...come learn with us and experience life in Africa as we forge a lifetime of connections through these inspiring portraits of human grace!
After the mosque visit, I had a day to relax with the extremely hospitable people of Sipi Falls. We were staying at the Rafiki friend guest house, a cozy little place. I woke up early to a beautiful, misty morning and decided to make a trek outdoors. The dew on the grass was cool and refreshing and the sunrise was absolutely splendid! I wandered outside the gate and saw a group of children playing, hanging from the fence. They stared at me with curious, cute smiles, so I approached them and we became friends. A neighbor in a bright yellow sunshine dress was walking by with her daughter to the market to buy books for her kids. She casually asked if I’d like to tag along, and I said of course! I really liked the welcoming, open manner of the people here. As we strolled down the hill, I surveyed the coffee fields with people carrying water buckets, and houses with stacks letting out gray clouds of smoke, probably as families prepared breakfasts and began their day. At the market, a young girl noticed my camera and freely asked me to take a photo, so I kindly obliged, even with the elders unknowingly looking on and wondering what she was posing for.
We then visited the waterfall for which the area was named, with caves and trees all around. There, I came across a young man who was eager to become friends. He shared that they had local runners who had won gold medals, and then challenged me to a run. He said, “we are so good at running, you will never be able to catch me, I promise!” I stood and watched him run to the top of the falls, a good twenty minute hike. We could barely make it to the first level – and he did the hike 2-3 times a day! His features were so striking that I asked him to pose with the red flower. He happily agreed, although he conveys a deeply contemplative expression. As I looked through the lens at his stoic face, I felt a great irony in thinking that he wanted to find a way to go far from this place to secure a better life. But I, on the other hand, loved this nice slow pace with not as much anxiety and stress as back home in the western world.
In this realm, human connection was important and welcome. They did not know the type of chaotic life I lived – hectic and merciless, often with no room for error. And yet I did not realize how much I yearned for the human touch that I was experiencing, wishing that I could make a life such as the one they were living. Should we follow what makes us happy, or should we do what seems practical and expected of us, by our families, by society, by the cultural norms we each abide by? I am fortunate enough to have visited developing nations around the globe. I often realize that although I am grateful for the conveniences of modern society, I still struggle with feeling accepted and happy even with all that I am blessed with. I feel that abandoning our wild routines temporarily for a much needed digression such as this is extremely therapeutic, a healing I cannot even begin to explain – a sense of peace and tranquility that we all need to reset. Go beyond your comfort zones and live your life to the fullest – seize the day because who knows if tomorrow comes, as we have discovered this past year thru a global pandemic. Meet new people unlike your own, learn of other cultures – and I promise you that once you return to your life, you will bring a new, more meaningful perspective that enhances and enriches your existence as nothing else ever will!
Look at those bright, beautiful smiles – from the elders assembled in the masjid to the children playing outside! The masjid community in Sironko was absolutely heartwarming and my first stop on the journey through eastern Uganda. They greeted me with open arms and a wealth of happiness and enthusiasm, for which I was truly surprised, grateful and humbled. In my mind, my mission here this day was two fold – to not only deliver a donation from the IMAN charity group, but learn about the people and interact with them in the way I knew best, thru my camera. The group was sweet and loving, especially the children. The girls and boys were so excited to have our attention, and in many cases enjoyed posing since these opportunities are rare. They were shy at times but also bold in many ways – peeking around corners and stealing glances when they could. I tried to be playful and connect with the cute little ones, as well as capture the gratitude emanating from their faces. Sometimes all the children need is some love and kindness! The vibrant colors the females wore were so beautiful that I had to grab these spectacular images!
This masjid project is managed on the ground by the MIIRA foundation and Brother Kafo Azizi. We donated via IMAN and All 4 Humanity, and also delivered Eid gifts for the children, including sweets, clothes, school supplies and toys. I am so very appreciative of the respect and warmth I received from everyone and hope some day to go back and visit. If you would like to support the completion of this masjid for this loving community, please reach out to me and I will connect you with the appropriate contacts.
After the mosque visit, I had a day to relax with the extremely hospitable people of Sipi Falls. We were staying at the Rafiki friend guest house, a cozy little place. I woke up early to a beautiful, misty morning and decided to make a trek outdoors. The dew on the grass was cool and refreshing and the sunrise was absolutely splendid! I wandered outside the gate and saw a group of children playing, hanging from the fence. They stared at me with curious, cute smiles, so I approached them and we became friends. A neighbor in a bright yellow sunshine dress was walking by with her daughter to the market to buy books for her kids. She casually asked if I’d like to tag along, and I said of course! I really liked the welcoming, open manner of the people here. As we strolled down the hill, I surveyed the coffee fields with people carrying water buckets, and houses with stacks letting out gray clouds of smoke, probably as families prepared breakfasts and began their day. At the market, a young girl noticed my camera and freely asked me to take a photo, so I kindly obliged, even with the elders unknowingly looking on and wondering what she was posing for.
We then visited the waterfall for which the area was named, with caves and trees all around. There, I came across a young man who was eager to become friends. He shared that they had local runners who had won gold medals, and then challenged me to a run. He said, “we are so good at running, you will never be able to catch me, I promise!” I stood and watched him run to the top of the falls, a good twenty minute hike. We could barely make it to the first level – and he did the hike 2-3 times a day! His features were so striking that I asked him to pose with the red flower. He happily agreed, although he conveys a deeply contemplative expression. As I looked through the lens at his stoic face, I felt a great irony in thinking that he wanted to find a way to go far from this place to secure a better life. But I, on the other hand, loved this nice slow pace with not as much anxiety and stress as back home in the western world.
In this realm, human connection was important and welcome. They did not know the type of chaotic life I lived – hectic and merciless, often with no room for error. And yet I did not realize how much I yearned for the human touch that I was experiencing, wishing that I could make a life such as the one they were living. Should we follow what makes us happy, or should we do what seems practical and expected of us, by our families, by society, by the cultural norms we each abide by? I am fortunate enough to have visited developing nations around the globe. I often realize that although I am grateful for the conveniences of modern society, I still struggle with feeling accepted and happy even with all that I am blessed with. I feel that abandoning our wild routines temporarily for a much needed digression such as this is extremely therapeutic, a healing I cannot even begin to explain – a sense of peace and tranquility that we all need to reset. Go beyond your comfort zones and live your life to the fullest – seize the day because who knows if tomorrow comes, as we have discovered this past year thru a global pandemic. Meet new people unlike your own, learn of other cultures – and I promise you that once you return to your life, you will bring a new, more meaningful perspective that enhances and enriches your existence as nothing else ever will!
The town of Sipi Falls ushered me into the fascinating world of coffee. When we arrived at Rafiki guest house, a young man named Job warmly welcomed us, offering to set up a coffee making tour. I picked up Starbucks every day on my way to work, so this was sure to be an appealing experience. Job and his friends were very hospitable as they introduced themselves, each of them ending with “Welcome to Rafiki!”. I felt very much at home and embraced the opportunity to try something new!
The next day, Job took me to meet Mike, the coffee farmer. Mike was such a kind soul, easy to talk to with a calming presence that made me feel as if I had known him my entire life. He shared that the Arabica crop, the first known species of coffee, was introduced in Uganda in 1900 and is one of the most prominent exports of the country. This coffee with high caffeine content brings with it a level of energy that permeates the local culture, so it is a necessary part of the day similar to American life. He showed me where he grows the coffee plants with the cherry fruit, cultivates the beans, pounds them into powder and finally puts it into the boiling water to make fresh coffee on a daily basis. The silvery smoke that lingered in the air above the coffee pot was beautifully ensnared within the rays of sunlight and at one point appeared to have a soul of its own! And the tantalizing aroma of fresh coffee I inhaled truly captured the moment in a way I cannot forget. The smoke enveloped him like a veil, hugging him tightly as if to protect him, but Mike did not flinch. He and the smoke became one, listening intently to his traditional music as companions in this coffee making ritual. I dug a hole and placed my little plant in the rich, dark soil, leaving my mark on this beautiful country. Mike estimated the plant would produce fruit in three years or so, an excuse to come back to Uganda I said, with a big toothy smile!
The coffee reminded me of chai tea from our part of the world, Pakistan. Although making tea is such a simple process, the act of drinking it is a collective one – allowing us to bond with others through conversations and sharing our life stories. The coffee here served the same purpose – a way for the community to come together, socialize and build stronger relationships with one another. The local families who grow coffee plants meet weekly as a result of this common connection. Every time I catch a whiff of coffee now, I find myself back in that unforgettable moment in Sipi.
As we departed for the guest house, we encountered more children playing - some of whom were afraid of my fair complexion. They called me ‘muzungu’ or ‘white man’, in Swahili. Job said when he was a child, he too feared anyone who had skin of a different color. One day, a sweet white woman kissed him lovingly on the cheek and taught him that we are not of different races, but of one – the human race. That was a pivotal moment and he no longer fears white man or has any trepidation towards those of a different color. It was yet another lesson to me in human connection, how affection and kindness can shape the way we think and experience life. Love is an emotion we all need to welcome when given the chance – a beautiful feeling that allows us to grow and connect with others with whom we cross paths in this life. Give your love freely and do not hold back, for who knows if this simple, selfless act can change a life for the better.
What better day to highlight the contribution of women than today - Mother’s Day! We took a tour of the Karamojong village to see how the tribe lives and encountered several remarkable females - building homes, carrying water jugs, gardening and doing other chores. They reminded me of my own incredible mother who worked hard to support our family growing up in Pakistan. The women are strong and independent, managing the families while the men are away herding cattle. We surveyed the architecture of the homes. Most had nothing inside other than leather mats upon which the families would sleep at night. The first lady we met was of the upper class – you can recognize such women by the necklaces they wear. Jewelry is a beautiful part of all cultures, and this one is no exception. These necklaces represent not only beauty, but wealth. The colorful glass beads may be of value to her if she ever has a need to sell them. The number of silver necklaces shows how many wives her husband has. The copper necklace represents the clan of the husband, in her case, the antelope clan. Although you see the life experience in her eyes, you also sense that she lives a comfortable life from the delicate smile on her face. But, not everyone is so lucky to live an easy life.
As we were completing our tour, I noticed one home in particular, with a woman sitting inside wearing a shocking pink top. Rays of sun fell onto her through the unthatched roof, encasing her in their warmth. For an instance, she appeared trapped within the beams - the contrast of the light and dark was striking, and I needed to capture this moment! We approached the woman and asked if we could take a photo, she replied that she was blind and had been since an accident in her youth. I found it inspiring that even without the ability to see, she was working to build her new home, and took care of her grandchildren with her young daughters who were nearby. I looked around and asked her about the fragmented roof. She said that she could not afford new materials, and so reusing the materials was the only way to finish the new home. I decided that this was a wonderful opportunity to connect mothers across the world, so using the remaining donation I had from the IMAN USA charity group of interfaith moms, I offered to help. She smiled happily and humbly accepted the donation. I tried to communicate with them through gestures but they just laughed, and I was unsure if they even understood what I was trying to say. I grinned along with them, knowing that whatever they thought of me was certainly delighting them, and that pleased me very much. This interaction with these women made me realize that language is not just spoken words, but that true connection can be made through kindness and a personal touch – we just need to make the effort.
I decided to go full on Karamojong and immerse myself in the culture by wearing the native dress and experiencing the simple life not as a tourist, but as a local. I find through my travels that this truly is the best way to learn about people and their way of life. This humility in the desire to relate allows human connection to occur at a primal level with compassion and understanding for people different than our own. There is an innocence and sincerity in the simplicity of it that I cannot explain, but it fulfills me to a point that nothing else does.
As we strolled outside the village, we came upon a clearing under a large, shaded tree – an area designated for the tribal dance. The women and men were gathering around for a special kind of jamboree! Dancing was a form of art and entertainment for the community – even the children happily watched as the adults began to sway and twirl. This was a way for the Karamojong tribe to leave their worries behind and focus on the delightfully simple music and movement with no use of modern technology or sound. The dancers tied bells to their legs and the ring leader blew a whistle and chanted whilst the others repeated the words – this provided the underlying rhythm for their movement. The joyful choreography was spontaneous and consisted of clapping hands, stomping feet, and singing. I was reminded of my village in Hunza Valley where the sound of drums drew people from their homes to the polo ground. To us, this was such a primitive act – but to them, it was a means of entertainment and relaxation. The children sported huge grins as they watched the performance, and I had to capture the pure glee beaming from their faces! As I observed the dance, I noticed women with clay strewn over their faces in delicate patterns. I was told that this was considered an ornament of beauty for attracting men. As the dancing commenced, it became such an exhilarating experience that they gestured to me to dance along with them! I jumped as the young man sprang up opposite me – it was challenging to leap so high especially wearing their local dress but I certainly tried my best to follow his lead! They laughed and enjoyed my unexpected participation, and later I received many smiles and recognition as they saw me walking around the village. I discovered afterwards that the higher a man can jump, the more women he will attract. Had I known this sooner, I truly would have made an effort to soar!
**Please be advised that some photos in this post contain graphic content related to rituals of animal sacrifice**
1/3:
I was staying in a guest house at Kara-tunga Tours when I noticed a striking young man having tea next to the cozy fire. He caught my attention and we started chatting. His name was King and he was part of the Karamojong tribe. Fascinated to learn about their culture, I started asking him loads of questions, and he was a wealth of information and easy to talk to! He shared that the next day, there was going to be a ritual ceremony and sacrifice and invited me to partake. We walked outside to the area of the tribe’s holy tree, a sight in itself, where I saw the elders gathering along with other young men. For the ritual ceremony, an animal sacrifice was needed, traditionally a goat. There were 5 elder men sitting in a semi-circle under the tree. This tree was a place of worship – there is no traditional religious structure in which they congregate. Each elder held his own spear considered regalia for the ceremony. The animal is to be sacrificed using a spear rather than a knife. Young boys collected wood and made a beautiful, blazing bonfire.
Fire represents many things to peoples and cultures around the world – illumination, destruction, spirituality. As the flames of the fire danced, I became hypnotized and felt as if I was in another realm. The fiery orange and yellow sparks drew my attention, and the blur of the smoke and smell created an aura difficult to describe. It was a surreal experience sitting there watching them stoke the smoldering fire and ready it to receive the sacrifice they were about to make. I felt apprehensive as they approached the sweet little goat about to lose its life. The elders selected the man to spear the goat 3-4 times piercing the animal from the ribs through the lungs into the heart. They waited patiently for the goat to die – by killing the animal in this way, the blood stayed within the carcass. Once the goat was lifeless, they lifted the head of the goat and faced east – they believed that whatever came from this direction was good since they migrated from Ethiopia. They cut a piece of flesh from between the thighs and roasted it atop the blazing fire, after which an elder tasted it and passed it on to two other elders. Finally, the goat’s blood was removed for the humans to eat!
**Please be advised that some photos in this post contain graphic content related to rituals of animal sacrifice**
The main elder was the first to consume the clumpy blood, which signifies a celebration of life since blood runs through each and every one of us. When he was done, the others took turns doing the same. At times, they even placed their face within the goat’s abdomen! Once the drinking of the lifeblood was complete, the goat was carved into pieces and roasted. The men lined up one after the other to allow the elders to smear the waste from the stomach and intestines onto their forehead and chest, generating positive vibes and good thoughts. I felt a little queasy seeing this, but understood that this was part of their way of life. After the waste was applied to their bodies, they joined the semicircle and took a seat beneath the tree. Karamojong believe that this casts away the bad spirits and is a kind of protection and holy blessing. As they finished up this part of the ritual, an outsider arrived, entering a bit late – he was an interesting character and piqued my curiosity. I kept looking at him, and he kept staring at me as I captured his iconic image with my camera.
**Please be advised that some photos in this post contain graphic content related to rituals of animal sacrifice**
3/3
Although he said nothing, his sense of self was evident. As someone who relishes style and fashion, I could see he was fairly modish and suave, holding his stick and arrogantly giving me an occasional glance. I learned that he was actually deaf, so although he joined in the prayer ritual, he was not able to hear the ceremonial speech. He too must have been curious about me – a muzungu onlooker oddly dressed in their native clothing. Soon after, the prayer started as the elder aggressively chanted, “God please bring us rain, harvest, make our land fertile and make our enemies perish!” He faced the direction of the enemy’s village waving the spear, cursing and taunting them. The others sang along saying “Yah, Yah!” The sound was so hypnotic and mesmerizing that I involuntarily joined them in the chant. Ironically, I also felt the clicking of my camera creating a certain rhythm in the moment, and when I would stop shooting, they would all turn to look at me and wait for me to begin clicking again. I sensed that I too had captured them with my own ritual of photographic movements!
As we were departing that day, dark gray clouds suddenly emerged on the horizon. It was a dramatic moment because they had actually prayed for rain during the ceremony, and rain was nowhere to be seen throughout my visit. I was caught off guard and wondered if the prayers had truly been the catalyst to bring on the rain, or was it just the typical tropical weather we would expect on a daily basis in that equatorial region. My head told me that it was likely the latter, but my heart believed that the elders’ prayers had been answered! Do we listen to our heart or to our head? “Sometimes our heart sees what is invisible to the eye.” I chose to follow my heart that day. As we stand shoulder to shoulder with other cultures, our hearts come together as one and we feel compassion and empathy for our fellow man. Listening to our heart often contradicts reason, but we cannot deny that we feel more joy this way - and this in turn leads us to a path to a much happier and peaceful place!
Early morning I was excited to visit the Karamoja Bazaar to see if I could find a traditional dress to wear at the ritual ceremony. King and I strolled by the stalls and I was amazed at the vivid colors and liveliness of the place, although it was so small and modest. It was such an interesting juxtaposition of color with the earth tones that one sees in these regions, something of a common theme from what I could tell. The people were so friendly and smiling! They seemed curious about me since I stood out like a sore thumb in their local market. It was a lighthearted, enjoyable experience to see such curiosity and joy in their faces. I took some photos and shared them with my dear friend and here is her reaction. It provided me with an interesting perspective on how we live, so I wanted to share. I hope we can all look at life in a similar manner.
“The first thing I always notice in your photos is what the children are wearing, or not. Here I of course noticed no shoes. When I see photos of children barefoot, I am sad and my heart aches for that moment because I am a mother. Why do they not have shoes is always my first thought? I have a closet full of shoes. But then I think they obviously don’t think twice about it – this is their life. The curious yet content looks on their faces as they watch you tells a story, yet they go about their day with a focus that many of us in civilized nations lack. It really makes one think about what is important in life. We desire material wealth and power – but to what end? What will we do with these beautiful, expensive things we have acquired? We will leave it all here. We arrive naked in this world, and we will leave this world the same, wrapped in a sheet with only our experiences to take with us. We are so spoiled with our big homes, expensive cars, high profile careers, latest phones and technology, designer bags and clothes, etc. etc. You get my point. These people live such simple lives but are richer than us in the happiness and fulfillment they feel as they enjoy each minute of the day tending to their stalls, chatting with customers and selling their goods. Look at the girl in blue – smiling so sincerely and sweetly. What I would give to live an uncomplicated existence such as hers. What a simple place with life’s necessities – fruit, vegetables, clothing. No New York City, Paris or London with the big department stores or expensive fashion houses. No stresses such as those we encounter living in the most powerful country in the world. We are ungrateful beings and need to be humbled every so often to put things into perspective. Rather than thinking of vacations and resorts, and where we are going to be dining and shopping, we should raise our hands and be grateful for all we do have in life and do our best to help others who need it. The real wealth we all need is richness of our hearts and souls, not money in our bank accounts. I want to leave this life feeling as if I made a difference, leaving a positive footprint and legacy behind that encourages others to do the same. The beauty in our hearts is more important than our outer beauty, and we must nurture that day in and day out. Thank you for sharing these photos with me to bring me back to reality, I needed that today. I am grateful from the bottom of my heart for all of my blessings, including your shared experiences that open our eyes and make us see life differently, as we all should do. Stay blessed always.”
Although she enjoys life’s little pleasures and lives very comfortably, she also realizes that we take things for granted and must do our best to support those who have less. She does a lot of volunteer and charity work locally as well as globally because she has the desire to help those less fortunate. Why can’t we all think that way – why all this whining and showing off of material wealth? What does it accomplish to grumble about your petty life on social media? I see these posts daily and just roll my eyes. I need a new Gucci bag, the jacuzzi water is too cold, the airplane seat is too small – yeah, so what? Who the hell cares? I certainly don’t! Why do people complain, complain, complain about these frivolous things? They are all precocious brats! Use all of the f’ing energy you put into those posts irritated about your fake lives and channel that to meaningful causes. Give your time or money to charity and help those who need it. Go visit people on the ground in places like Africa so that you can appreciate your own life and have an opportunity to make another life better. If you are a doctor, donate your time and heal people who have no healthcare. If you are an architect, go build a house for the homeless or a house of worship. If you are a celebrity, go raise funds for the impoverished. This is the true meaning of life – to not always think of oneself but to think of others and channel good vibes their way. Please shut up and stop preaching to everyone all the time and take a moment to examine your inner self! That is the ask for today – look inward and become a better person! You can do this…we all can.
